21 Comments on “Should Your Axis Tilt Determine What Bowling Balls You Should Throw? – #RadicalRundown”

  1. Lefty newbe player, less than 5 years and over 60 years old.
    I’m rev dominant only because my speed is lower but I have good ball motion except getting the ball off my hand clean.
    This last league I figured out a way to get the ball off my hand with less hook and now my track is between my index and ring finger clipping the thumb.
    My benchmark ball is the sneak attack and now my only option when heading toward Brooklyn’s is to ball down, I have no move to the inside, the ball goes long and light.
    Getting an outer limits for a stronger option but now wondering what layout to use.

  2. Great info, never thought about axis tilt effecting ball motion. Time to look more closely at my layouts. (Thanks Phil)

  3. Why the longer pin to pap if you have higher tilt? Wouldn’t you want a stronger pin so you get more “help” from the core?

    1. 4-5.5″ layouts with more surface is key for high tilt players. The stronger the core numbers, go more towards 5″ to PAP, the weaker, more towards 4″. In any case, surface much more important because the core can only so much to help the ball slow down.

    2. @RadicalBowling Interesting. I always thought that higher tilt players would use the same layouts as high speed players since they both can have issues getting the ball to read early enough. More surface definitely makes sense though.

    3. @RadicalBowling I’m a high tilt player. I always like my balls to be drilled at 5″. The one thing that you’re saying that doesn’t make sense to me is the talk about using surface…..Shiny stuff seems to retain energy for me, and does a good job of caring corner pins……Why do you say to use surface? Is it so the ball doesn’t react as hard when it hits the dry down lane?

  4. Good stuff Phil. Never thought about tilt before. Guess I will now. Thank you for the tech tips! “That’s Radical”!!! Bonu$ Pearl with HK-22 please. 🙂

  5. Totally 100% disagree about your advice for low to zero tilt players.
    High flare layouts for low to zero tilt players guarantees ball death in the dry and non-recovery from misses right and weak hits at the pins.
    I am a zero tilt player and my ball is rolling off my hand. I need it to retain energy down lane. I have 90 degree axis rotation so it is not end over end forward as you said.
    Super high RG and tiny diff balls like a Purple Hammer or Vintage Pancake Rhino work exceptionally well for me.
    As to resin balls, they must be introductory balls that have very low diff and high rg and shiny surfaces with shorter pin layouts or they just burn up in the dry.

  6. I am a high tilt bowler and a lefty to boot. I find it to be a very delicate and difficult balance between adding enough surface to slow my ball down so it properly reads the pattern and doesn’t shoot past the break point, versus too much surface where it rolls out.

    Other than trial and error, do you have any suggestions or thoughts, Phil? Especially since I believe you’re a fellow lefty…..

    P.S. It shouldn’t surprise you that I don’t really need pearls, because my high tilt never causes me to have a problem with the ball NOT getting through the heads or miss. I just need it to hit the brakes, but not to burn up doing so.

    Thank you

  7. Hello Phil, like the other commenters, I was confused by the pin-to-pap advice, so I just re-watched one of Mo’s old videos in which he states the opposite case. I do get your point about surface being the more determinant factor, however. Thanks for all you do for our sport, and please do keep the content coming!

  8. I’m high tilt. > 20* and I find surface is my enemy. They pick up so early it’s hard to get the ball down the lane. I do have most of my stuff drilled with 4.5 to 5 in pin to PAP though. I just don’t seem to have a problem with a ball “scooting” down the lane. Most of my issues come with over reacting and/or reading too early. Hmmmmmm……

    1. If you are bowling on house shot, high tilt and axis rotation will hook early right and skate in oil if too far left. I think Phil is dead on, but you need to play the cliff at the correct angle. Usually people who have success with high tilt throwing right use higher speed and the hold left, which eliminates the over under. If you use this strategy, strong early rolling may not be your friend. If you can’t throw it hard, move left with strong stuff may be best option.

    2. I’m 20-24° as well. From what I was told in a FB group I understand we have alot more backend from the tilt. My PSO always goes 4-1/2 – 5 above and surface is my enemy unless I’m on heavier oil. HP I’m liking the 5500 polish compound and I notice when I have more surface I lose energy getting through the pocket. 15.2-15.5 mph with about 360-380 revs.

  9. Great video Phil, the problem I have is I’ve asked the PSO that I go to in my area and he always says he doesn’t have time to watch me or etc. I’m a good bowler @ a solid 201 avg, summer league 2 or 1 winter 2 or 3 and occasionally a tournament in another county brackets and so on. But I’m curious to find out what mine may be to help me out better and more knowledgeable to purchase the right balls. Dang balls are getting more expensive and not lasting much more than 300 games(oven) or not? You thought and I appreciate everything you do. Oh my pap is 4.3/8-1”up

    1. Wish I could help you but I’d say this. If a PSO told me he had no time to watch me bowl, I’d not give that guy any business. When they lose $ cause he is “too busy” they will learn.

  10. This is my first year as a steady bowler. I got a hammer 3D and it was drilled conservative at the place I got it. I have done good so far. It don’t have much hook at all. Had a guy help me with another ball he suggested the 900 global reality. It’s drill a little different than my hammer but I don’t see much difference. I think it I have to much forward roll and no rotation on it. Ore am I missing something. Thanks

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