Same Ball, Different Layouts? – #RadicalRundown

Welcome back to the #RadicalRundown!

In this segment, we're talking about whether you should use the same layout on multiple balls or use different layouts on more than one of the same ball that you really like. Listen to what Andrew has to say about this and how he approaches arsenal building.

Do you have more than one of the same ball with different layouts or do you like to use the same layouts on different balls to get different reactions? Tell us below!

#WOWThatsRadical #RadicalRevolution

10 Comments on “Same Ball, Different Layouts? – #RadicalRundown”

  1. You should definitely do the topic on whether to keep box surface or immediately change to something repeatable. I guess if you really want polish and don’t have a spinner, no need to break the shine on it?

  2. I have pretty much every ball since the zing pearl. Only one or two is laid out different. The spy and the pandemonium solid and the pandemonium solid is pin under and I use it on shorter patterns. Everything else is same same same. Seems like there is 20 or so balls. Crap that’s a lot of balls lol

  3. I did this experiment with the Conspiracy Theory:

    Ball #1 is 50×4″x25. This is a favorite “strong” layout for me, but never matched up well on this ball. It is over/under with surface, and “squirty” with polish. There is a very narrow window where this works for me. My initial thoughts were that this ball is a dud.

    Ball #2 is the 90×2 1/2″x45 “short pin” layout of the Radical drill sheet. Even with my lower rev rate, the ball is extremely consistent and very versatile. This was intended to be used on difficult patterns, but it is my house shot killer right now. I have 6 career 300 games, and three of them are this year with this ball. I will always have a short pin layout in my bag.

  4. On layout, the suggested angles are based on a 5″ over PAP. How do you convert the values for a smaller value like 4 1/8″? What would a 70×3 3/4×20 be for a 41/8″ over PAP. Thank you.

    1. This is an excellent question. The axis coordinates are only one part of the equation. Tilt and rotation matter too. Depending on that, your mileage may vary, but in an assym, the “rule of thumb” is that you should go a bit further from the pap for the pin distance to get the ball to go into a more end over end roll. I’m 4-3/4*1/2 and I rarely go any stronger than 4.5 inches from pap with the pin. The stronger the pin, the rounder the shape. So for you, the layout you mentioned may flare a ton and smooth out the pattern.

    2. The layout would be the same. When they say it’s based on a 5” PAP, they mean for the visual representation that accompanies the suggested layout. Because your PAP is not 5”, the pin will be in a different location in relation to your grip than what is shown on the drill card, so they don’t want you to think something is wrong or your pro shop operator made a mistake when they drill your ball.

  5. I’ve drilled the same call 2 different ways a few times and brought them with me to league. Because of my mechanics and physical make up, I have difficulty making hand position changes, so in order to get a different look out of a ball I know works, I need that second layout. It’s also beneficial when I bowl sport tournaments.

  6. My favorite early combo when I did bowl was asymmetric solid (sheen), high diff, drilled fairly strong (4-4.5 from pap). Combined with a symmetric pearl (shine), high diff, drilled the same way. If the heads started to break down, the pearl bought me 3-4 games more over 10 game block. Some tour pros I bowled against in the 90’s scored amazing with similar setups. Except, they went with a weaker pin position for the pearl.

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